The Wolf-Eyes flashlights are designed to be a lower-cost competitor for the "high end" tactical flashlight market. They are made in China by Co-Photoel Tech Co., Ltd. The lights appear to be uniquely designed (not a rip-off of another company's design) and are rather well made. This is the Rattlesnake or M90X. There are actually two versions of this light. The slightly less powerful M90 uses a 200 lumen bulb which burns for 80 minutes on four 123A cells. The M90X uses a 300 lumen bulb which burns for about 50 minutes on a set of cells.

First of all, let me tell you; this light is damn bright! The X version, which is what was reviewed, has the brighter, higher output bulb. It burns through four 123A cells in less than an hour, but if you need lots of light, the M90X can provide.

Body: The body of the Rattlesnake M90X is hard anodized aircraft aluminum. The head has a notches for grip and a heatsink-like fin around its circumference. Below that is a decorative ring with 5 cutouts followed by a wide ring of checkering around the center of the body tube. The checkering is pretty unique in that each little diamond has three horizontal grooves cut into it. The result is a non-aggressive, but pretty good gripping surface. There are two flat panels machined into either side of the body tube for printing and these also aid in gripping the light. The tailcap has 6 longitudinal grooves that run nearly the length of the tailcap. The rubber covered tailcap has a slight texture as well.

Bezel/Head: At the front of the light is the recessed glass lens. Behind that rests the lamp assembly which includes the reflector, bulb, and contacts. The reflector is metal with a bumpy texture to smooth out imperfections in the beam. The xenon bulb sits in the center of the reflector.

I was surprised by the heft of the lamp assembly. It's pretty solid. It is advertised as being "shock isolated", but I don't see any indication of a specific shock dampening system other than the spring contact behind the lamp assembly.

If you get the optional 4 LED tailcap, you can optionally use the 4 LEDs as your lighting source. These four LEDs can operate independently from the main lamp and provide low level area lighting for extended periods. More about it's operation when I describe the switches, below. The LEDs do have a glow-in-the-dark compound underneath them so that when they are used they will continue to glow a dim green for some time.

Main xenon bulb lamp assembly, optional LED tailcap

Output: The main lamp is screaming bright. Great output and a very smooth beam.

The white light produced by the xenon bulb is a typical incandescent white which is a relatively low color temperature and appears slightly yellowish when compared to a daylight white light source, which is normal. In practical use it appears as a pure white light. The beam has a bright central spot which blends into the corona , followed by a wide dimmer spillbeam.

The four LED tailcap produces a bluish wide spot of light which is sufficient for illuminating your way in the dark. The runtime of the LEDs is advertised as over 70 hours on four new 123A cells.

   
Main beam at one meter at target center, LED tailcap output shown at right.

Tailcap afterglow when turned off.

Runtime Plot: The manufacturer advertises the light as having a 50 minute runtime. We found the manufacturer estimates to be right in line with our test results - 49 minutes to 50% starting output. Surefire brand 123A cells were included with the light and were used for this test.

Runtime completed with included Surefire brand batteries. More information on runtime plots is available HERE.

Switch: Two types of switches came with the light for testing. The normal tactical switch which is included with the light normally is a rubber capped clickie. Press gently for momentary use, press until it clicks for constant on. Unscrew the tailcap to lock out the switch and prevent accidental activation. The switch produces a slight auditory feedback, but almost no tactile feedback when clicked. The difference in stroke between momentary and constant activation is significant, requiring moderate additional pressure to click the switch. The rubber cap does protrude above the level of the tailcap, so the light cannot stand on end.

The LED tailcap is a bit different. As you start to twist it down, the LEDs come on. Pressing in on the central clear plastic piston will now cause the LEDs to turn off and the main lamp to turn on in the "momentary" use position. Releasing again turns on the LEDs. Continuing to twist the tailcap will cause the LEDs to turn off and the main lamp to turn on.

If you back off from the LEDs "on" point just a little, you can use the central pressure switch to go directly from "off" to the main lamp "on". However, you'll get a flash from the LEDs as the switch crosses the LED "on" point, which can be a little startling if you are an idiot, like me, and have the tailcap pointed toward your face when you press it.

If you aren't going to be using the light as a strictly "tactical" light I can really see the LEDs as being very useful for most folks. If you use the light with the LEDs on and pointed outward from your hand, you can quickly snap the light up to a tactical position and press the LED switch with your thumb to turn on the main lamp.

Seals / Water Resistance: The light is advertised as splashable. It has O-rings and rubber seals in all the right places.

If it gets wet inside, just disassemble as much a possible without tools and let it dry before using again.

Ergonomics:

Size compared to a common 2AA aluminum light

Batteries: Four 123A cells power the light. I would recommend Titanium brand cells for $1.00 each (here's a review) or BatteryStation or Surefire brand cells for less than $2 each. I would not recommend purchasing these cells at retail stores since they cost $10 a pair or more in most retail stores!

To change out the batteries: unscrew the tailcap, drop out the old cells, place in new cells observing proper polarity. Reattach the tailcap and you're ready to go. Note that batteries go in NEGATIVE first, with the positive end pointing toward the tailcap. However, I did insert the batteries the wrong way and the light still worked.

Accessories: The LED tailcap is an accessory that needs to be purchased separately. There are also a bunch of other little add-ons you can get as well.

What I Liked: Water resistant, Very bright, LED tailcap is very handy for general lighting, Smooth beam, Compact size relative to it's output, Seems to be quite well made.

What I Didn't Like: Nothing significant

Picky Little Things: LED tailcap flashes when pressing the switch to go from off to main lamp on

Conclusions: I can completely see this light being used by professionals for "tactical" situations in conjunction with the normal tailcap. It's extremely bright, easy to use and operate, and projects a solid, smooth beam. Considering how bright it is and how fast it goes through batteries, I think that most "average" folks would probably get more utility from the lower output, longer running bulb model (M90) and the LED tailcap. But if you need maximum output or if you are one of those "gotta-have-the-brightest" types, I think the M90X will do the trick. What am I going to do with it? I'm leaving it by the back door for a few weeks of backyard duty to see how well it does. I have a feeling that I won't have any trouble seeing what's going on back there at night.

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