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Reviewer's
Impressions:
The Petzl Myo 3 and Myo 5 are serious headlamps for
the serious users. Petzl has taken all of the good features
of their past headlamps, added a few new touches, and
created a little masterpiece.
Starting at the rear of the headlamp, you will find
the battery compartment. The compartment serves as the
rear attachment point for the straps. The compartment
is mounted with the door on the side. The power cable
is attached at the center of the door, allowing it a
straight path to the bezel in the front.. This reduces
strain on the cable. The battery door is removed by
gripping the textured areas on either side and sliding
it forward and up. Inside are 4 AA batteries with the
polarity indicated on the side of the compartment. Also,
there is a red battery guide which tends to fall out.
This guide is a spacer for people who utilize rechargable
or lithium AA batteries. Some of these batteries are
larger in diameter than normal alkalines. Removing the
spacer allows slightly larger diameter batteries to
fit. Replacing it prevents AA alkaline batteries from
rattling. The cover simply snaps back into place.
Working around the headlamp we find that the cord leading
to the lamp is coiled just beyond the battery compartment
in order to relieve strain. There are two plastic connectors
that hold the cord to the headstrap, one of which contains
the spare incandescent lamp.
The cord enters the lamp assembly from the side at
the pivot point, again reducing strain on the cord.
The lamp can be pivoted vertically to direct the light
where you need it. The lamp assembly is divided into
three parts; the forehead plate, the LED array and the
incandescent bezel. The LED array is at the bottom of
the assembly and the LEDs reside in their own dull silvered
reflector and point at a downward angle relative to
the incandescent bezel. Just above the LEDs is the rubberized
incandescent bezel. The incandescent bezel contains
the bulb, which has an unusual proprietary base, and
a partially textured silvered reflector. The reflector
is textured around its outer edge, resulting in a beam
which does not develop any dark holes when focused out
to a flood setting. The bezel is textured for grip around
its edges and the lamp is activated by twisting the
bezel counterclockwise from the front. On the top of
the bezel is a notch that mates with a tab protruding
from the lamp support. When the headlamp is off and
the bezel is pivoted back against the forehead plate
the tab engages the slot. This acts as an effective
lockout to prevent accidental activation of the light.
Twisting the bezel switch to the "on" position
first activates the LEDs. Since the LEDs will probably
see the most use, this makes perfect sense. As you continue
to twist, the LEDs shut off and the main lamp is activated.
The Myo 5 adds the ability to change the LED brightness
settings by turning them on, then rapidly turning them
off and on again to access the next setting. Initially
the LEDs are at the "medium" or "optimal"
level, then going to "high", and "low"
in sequence. The bezel switch can be activated and manipulated
with only one hand.
In the event that the incandescent bulb needs to be
changed, the bezel is twisted all the way out and then
pulled straight off the front. The lamp is completely
inoperable in this disassembled condition. Pull out
the old bulb and replace with the new one from the carrier
on the strap. The lamp's rectangular base prevents it
from being inserted incorrectly in the dark and makes
it very easy to replace in the dark as well. The base
of the lamps are color coded as well: white for high
output xenon, black for regular output. Press the bezel
back on and the bulb should turn on immediately.
The entire assembly is supported on 2 elastic bands
which can be completely removable for cleaning or replacement.
In fact, every part of the headlamp can be removed and
replaced if needed.
Output from the light is very good with a maximum spot
of about 2000 lux at one meter, giving it good throw
for lighting subjects at a distance. The flood, unbelievably,
has no dark holes in it at all. It does have a slightly
brighter center and a bright ring around its edge,
but these artifacts are much more tolerable than having
complete gaps in the light field as is common with smooth
reflectors when focused to a flood pattern.
The LEDs produce a pleasant flood of light, and despite
the fact that they are mounted at a downward angle,
can be tilted up to point almost straight forward. The
Myo 3 LEDs had a much more bluish tint than the Myo
5, and some rings formed by the LEDs. This gives the
Myo 5 the edge in color rendition with LEDs.
The headlamps are what Petzl calls "H2OK"
- They can get wet and survive a dunk, but are not dive
capable. I was able to find a rubber seal in the battery
compartment, but none in the bezel.
Improvements: Initially, I felt that Petzl should add
a foam pad to the back of the plastic lamp mount so
as to increase its comfort on the forehead. However,
I have spoken with Petzl and sure enough, "user
error" was the problem here. I had the headband
adjusted incorrectly. By fiddling with it a bit I found
that the band around the circumference of the head does
apply even pressure all the way around without the forehead
plate digging in.
+ + + Pluses:
The Myo 3has a good focusable beam without holes, LEDs
and incandescent in same unit but in separate parts
to avoid holes in the reflector that cause beam artifacts,
full 3 point attachment system, runs on AA batteries
that are easily obtainable and have good power to size
ratios, easy battery change, good water resistance,
one handed operation, and lots of little clever and
convenient extra features.
The Myo 5 has everything the Myo 3 has plus current
regulated LEDs and 3 selectable levels of lighting from
the LEDs. This headlamp should suit almost every headlamp
need out there except diving. If you're planning on
getting a Myo, spring for the Myo 5 if you can.
- - - Minuses:
LEDs in Myo 3 a little mis-aligned and
noticeably blue in tint, Water resistant but not dive
capable.
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