So one light isn't enough? How about six?
How about eighteen? Please welcome the LumaPower M3
Transformer; the ultimate kit light!
Standard in the kit are the three bodies
(1x123A, 1xAA, 2xAA), small reflector head and both
the two-stage and tactical type talicap, giving 6 combinations
by itself. Add the optional turbohead and two reflectors
you can get a total of 18 possible combinations. In
addition it has two output levels built in, and a third
level available when using the 2 stage switch.
Clockwise, starting on left: 2xAA extension tube,
Large smooth reflector/head (optional), Large textured
reflector (optional), Tactical switch, Assembled: two-stage
switch/1x123A body/light engine/small textured reflector
& head, 1xAA tube in center.
Assembled: large smooth reflector, 1x123A
body, Tactical switch
Assembled: large textured reflector,
2xAA body, Two stage switch
Packaging - Turbohead left, M3 right
Body: The machined outer body parts are made
of thick machined aluminum with a hard anodize (type
III) coating for serious durability. The tailcaps have
a square pattern in 3 rings, and both the AA extension
tube and light engine are checkered to assist with grip.
The 1AA and 123A tubes have flat areas machined into
the sides for display of the product name, and these
also assist with grip. The light can be fully disassembled.
It is not glued or locktite'd at any of the screw-thread
joints. Machining fit and finish is mostly very good,
with one exception: the tactical tail switch. More on
this later.
Bezel/Head: The head of the light consists of
two parts: the reflector assembly and the light engine.
The stock reflector assembly includes an AR coated glass
lens, a small textured aluminum reflector, a GITD O-ring
just behind the lens (allows for easy location of the
light in the dark), and the outer casing. The turbo
reflector assembly is optional and can be purchased
with either a smooth (more throw) or textured (smoother
beam) deep aluminum reflector, or both. This assembly
also includes the AR coated glass lens and a GITD O-ring
just behind the lens. The turbo head gives much greater
"throw", or distance-lighting ability by focusing
the beam into a very tight spot. FYI, the textured reflectors
are referred to as "OP" type reflectors by
the manufacturer (OP=Orange Peel: a description of the
appearance of the texturizing). The maker also mentions
that the light is "focusable" by loosening
the reflector assembly, but I just didn't find this
to be very effective. It seems to be at its best focus
when tightened all the way down.
Textured turbo reflector, Smooth turbo reflector in
turbo head, Small textured stock reflector
The light engine module consists of a
Cree XR-E LED powered by LumaPower's special circuit.
The module has a small brass button on the bottom where
it connects with the battery packs and this button is
attached to a tiny switch. If you tighten the module
all the way down against the battery tube the module
is in "high" mode. If you loosen it about
1/2 turn, you'll hear a tiny click. This is the switch
moving into "low" mode which reduces output
to about 1/3 that of the high output mode.
Light engine module
Now here's one quirk I do need to make
you aware of. The light included a black washer/spacer
on top of the light engine which is shaped in a particular
way. It's missing in the picture above, but placed in
its correct orientation in the picture below. This spacer
acts to keep the aluminum reflectors from shorting out
on top of the LED contacts, but the spacer is NOT permanently
attached. If you remove the reflector assembly it will
fall out and, for some undiscovered mystical reason,
will always promptly roll as far as possible into the
narrow gap under any heavy appliance which may be located
in the area. ...*sigh*... Thank goodness for Super
Sliders or I'd never have gotten it back. If it
does fall out, make sure the cup lip is pointed upwards
and the gaps on either side align with the wire loops
on the module. Also, watch it as you screw on the reflector,
making sure it doesn't twist and cause the reflector
to jam. A drop of silicone glue may not be a bad idea
to hold it semi-permanently in place (do so at your
own risk, however).
Output: The white light produced by the LED
is a high color temperature and produces good color
rendition. No noticeable tint was immediately detectable.
Since LEDs produce much more light in the blue end
of the spectrum, and significantly less light in the
red/yellow end, things illuminated with an LED can appear
"flat" and lacking depth or texture to our
eyes. This is because of the way our eyes work and the
limited spectrum output of LEDs. Distant target identification
is, to my eyes, always better with an incandescent bulb.
As I mentioned earlier, the optional turbo head reflectors
are designed to produce a tight hotspot for distance
observations, while the stock utility reflector produces
a wider hotspot for close and medium range work.
There are two stages of output built in with the light
engine. Loosen it for low, tighten it for high. If you
use the two-stage click switch instead of the tactical
type (one stage) switch, you get three output levels:
Switch low (light engine on low or high produces the
same output); switch high with light engine set to low
(we'll call this "medium"); and switch high
with light engine set to high.
Two-stage switch low, light engine set to high or
low (this setting unavailable when using the tactical
switch):
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Batteries
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Small Textured
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Large Textured
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Large Smooth
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1 x 123A
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138 (11.75)
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390 (19.75)
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454 (21.31)
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435 (4.35)
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1 x AA
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34 (5.83)
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86 (9.27)
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102 (10.10)
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98 (0.98)
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2 x AA
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153 (12.37)
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420 (20.49)
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530 (23.02)
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480 (4.80)
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Two-stage switch high, light engine set to low (same
as using the tactical switch with light engine set to
low):
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Batteries
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Small Textured
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Large Textured
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Large Smooth
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1 x 123A
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511 (22.61)
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1400 (37.41)
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1710 (76.16)
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1500 (15.00)
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1 x AA
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518 (22.75)
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1415 (37.62)
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1716 (41.42)
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1500 (15.00)
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2 x AA
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519 (22.78)
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1416 (37.63)
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1719 (41.46)
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1500 (15.00)
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Two-stage switch high, light engine set to high
(same as using the tactical switch with light engine
set to high):
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Batteries
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Small Textured
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Large Textured
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Large Smooth
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1 x 123A
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1660 (40.74)
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4610 (67.90)
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5800 (76.16)
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5080 (50.80)
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1 x AA
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1325 (36.40)
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3660 (60.00)
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4560 (67.53)
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4090 (40.90)
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2 x AA
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1650 (40.62)
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4600 (67.82)
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5800 (76.16)
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5200 (52.00)
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All throw readings are in Lux
at one meter. The numbers in parenthesis are for comparison
in the Comparison
Charts.
Small textured reflector beam at one meter
Mouse Over (no click needed) to compare: large
smooth reflector vs. large textured reflector
Runtime Plot: Give me a break. Do you know how
long it took to get all those output readings??? And
you want runtimes too??? Sheesh! We'll see, but it's
not looking all that great from a time perspective to
get this done... I'll try to link to runtimes others
have done for now. Here's
some...
Switch: Two switches come with the light. A
glow in the dark (GITD) two stage reverse type click
switch (turns on after the click), and a black tactical
switch. The click switch follows this pattern: low-high-off.
The tactical switch allows you to press on the button
for momentary and twist it tight for constant-on use.
Tactical switch left, clickie switch right
Both work just fine, but the tactical
switch suffers from something I would call "thread
slop". If you loosen it a bit from "on"
so it turns off and is ready for momentary use, you
can press in on the whole tailcap outer body and make
the light turn on. This could cause accidental activation
of the light if something presses down on the tailcap
assembly, not just the switch button. It needs to be
unscrewed significantly to prevent this from happening.
Otherwise, it seems to work just fine.
Seals / Water Resistance: O-rings and double
O-rings protect the light at all potential points of
water entry. Dunkable at the least.
If it gets wet inside, just disassemble as much a possible
without tools and let it dry before using again.
Ergonomics: It's size depends on which body
configuration you choose to use. Obviously the 123A
body with the small stock reflector is the smallest,
and the turbo head with 2AA body configuration is the
largest.
Top row: Light engine, 123A body, click switch
Second row: Turbo head and 1AA body
Bottom row: Stock reflector, 2AA extension,tactical
switch.
Batteries: The light can be powered by one 123A
cell power the light (I would recommend Titanium
brand cells for $1.00 each), AA alkaline, AA rechargeable,
or AA lithium 3V cells. Insert the batteries positive
first.
To change out the batteries: unscrew the tailcap, drop
out the old cells, chase the cells across the floor,
chase the dog who grabbed the dropped battery, fight
with dog to prevent swallowing of the battery, throw
dog outside after retrieving battery, dispose of battery
properly, clean dog slobber off of hands, return to
light and place in new cells observing proper polarity.
Reattach the tailcap and you're ready to go.
Accessories: The sample received includes 11
spare O-rings and a holster which will hold the light
in the 123A or 1AA configuration with a second pouch
for either a spare 123A cell, a spare AA cell, or the
2AA extension tube and a spare cell.
Conclusions: The LumaPower M3 has
so many options it should fit almost everyone's personal-lighting
needs. It has very good output and it's extremely versatile.
Positives include the multiple output levels (even without
the 2 stage switch), good machining and water resistance,
good fit and finish, and multiple battery and reflector
options. The only negatives were the slightly sloppy
threads on the tactical tailcap and the spacer on top
of the light engine that likes to fall off when you
change the reflector assembly. Otherwise it's a very
handy light, well made and well designed.
NOTE: Although not necessary, I found
it advantageous to take all the O-rings off the body
parts and carefully clean all the threads and attachment
points with isopropyl alcohol and a small nylon brush.
The threads and tube ends were not corroded or damaged,
but there was quite a bit of machining residue left
behind from the manufacturing process. I then re-lubricated
all the O-rings with silicone grease and applied teflon
lube to the threads before assembling. It may sound
silly to do all of this for a flashlight, but I consider
it a tool, and a well-maintained tool will outlast one
that is not. If you are looking for flashlight maintenance
tips, I have written an
article which can help.
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