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The Fenix L1P is the Premium model of the Fenix L1
series (actually there are only 2 - the standard and
the premium). Both use 1 watt Luxeon LEDs for illumination,
are powered with a simple, easy to find AA alkaline
or rechargeable cell, and are very small and lightweight.
The premium model uses an R Binned Luxeon (higher quality)
and has a type III anodize hard coat finish.
Body: The body of the Fenix L1P is machined
aluminum with the aforementioned type III hard anodize
finish and is available in black only. The outside of
the body has several rings machined into the surface
to help with grip and you will also find flat panels
around the central area of the body for texture and
display of the company logos. The tailcap has a textured
area for grip as well as a recessed switch for standing
on end and a lanyard attachment point. A wrist lanyard
is attached and several other accessories are included
with the light.
Bezel/Head: The head of the L1P includes a coated
glass lens, a metal reflector, an R-binned Luxeon 1
watt LED, and a regulator circuit, all permanently installed.
The lens is slightly recessed which serves as some protection
from impact and abrasion. The LED is perfectly centered
in the reflector.
Output: Output is very good for a single AA
alkaline cell. Using an alkaline cell, output is semi-regulated
and diminishes over time. Some folks have reported great
success using the Energizer L91 Lithium AA cells which
have been found to provide around 3 hours of rather
well-regulated output.
The white light produced by the LED is a high color
temperature and produces good color rendition weighted
toward the middle of the spectrum. No tint is detectable
when compared against a near sunlight-white source.
Beam at one meter at target center and at target edge
to show spillbeam.
Runtime Plot: Runtime with an alkaline AA cell
is shown below. Considering the fact that the light
is using an alkaline AA cell, which is poorly suited
to provide power to the high-energy-demanding Luxeon,
output and runtime is very good! This curve appears
to provide evidence of a straightforward DC-DC boost
circuit which results in "semi-regulated"
output. As mentioned above, longer regulated output
has been realized by people who have tried using 1.5V
AA Lithium cells, but be aware that these cells are
not specifically approved for use in the instructions.
Never use a 3.6V Lithium AA cell in this light!
Runtime
completed with Energizer brand batteries. More information
on runtime plots is available HERE.
Special request: Runtime with an Energizer
2300mAh NiMH rechargable. The NiMH results in more light
up front, but you lose some near the end. It can be
damaging to a rechargeable cell to run it down too low,
so the runtime was stopped at 2½ hours. Note
that the time scales on the two graphs are the same.
Runtime
completed with Energizer brand batteries. More information
on runtime plots is available HERE.
Switch: The switch is a rubber covered clickie
and is fully recessed in the tailcap which allows the
light to stand on end and be used as an electric candle.
Despite the fact that the switch is recessed, it is
very easy to use. Click on, click off. You can lock-out
the switch by unscrewing the tailcap 1/2 turn. This
will prevent accidental activation when packing the
light in your backpack or luggage.
Seals / Water Resistance: The light is protected
from the environment by an o-ring at both ends of the
body tube, a rubber switch cover and a sealed bezel.
Fenix advertises the light as "waterproof"
with no specific depth rating. I would call it "dunkable"
but not "diveable".
If it gets wet inside, just disassemble as much a possible
without tools and let it dry before using again.
Ergonomics: Nothing special to report here,
except that it is very small and easy to carry in the
pocket.
Size compared to a common 2AA aluminum light
Batteries: For batteries, this light is approved
by the manufacturer for use with AA alkaline and AA
rechargeable NiMH cells. All others are at your own
risk. The input voltage for the Fenix is 0.9V to 1.5V
only.
To change out the battery: unscrew the tailcap, drop
out the old cell, place in new cell observing proper
polarity. Reattach the tailcap and you're ready to go.
Accessories: Several accessories are included
with the light. Inside the box you will find spare O-rings,
a spare rubber switch boot, a full sized lanyard, and
a belt sheath. A wrist lanyard is includes as well and
comes attached to the light. The Fenix is one of the
few lights I have received that included this many accessories,
and I have never seen a light include a spare rubber
switch cover.
What I Liked: Waterproof, Tough/impact
resistant, Good battery life, Bright, Easy battery change,
Lightweight, Stands up
What I Didn't Like: Nothing at
all.
Picky Little Things: Some third
party individuals have noted slight problems with flickering.
This may be due to a poor connection in the switch.
Contact the supplier or the manufacturer if you have
this problem. The light I tested worked fine.
Conclusions: The Fenix L1P is a
superb little light which should provide a lifetime
of reliable service. Using a simple and inexpensive
AA alkaline, or rechargeable NiMH for the "green"
folks out there, you get great light output for a very
reasonable amount of time. Third party tests have also
indicated that a 1.5V lithium AA is safe to use as well
and provides excellent regulated output and runtime.
The L1P is well designed, high quality, and shows every
indication of being a very durable illumination tool.
The fact that the manufacturer includes user replaceable
spare parts (O-rings, switch cover), 2 lanyards, and
a belt sheath with the light is just icing on the cake.
READER UPDATE - Don D. provides
this observation:
I just wanted to share a few observations on the
Fenix lights which have been so highly reviewed by
you and others.
First, they eat o-rings! Opening my L1 for the first
time to insert a battery, it promptly destroyed the
o-ring at the switch end. When I replaced the ring
I added the lubricant it should have had from the
factory. Yesterday I accidentally opened it from the
wrong end... and upon doing so it promptly destroyed
the o-ring at the LED end as well. Again, there was
no lubrication on this ring. Lessons here: the rings
are very fragile, and they are not properly lubricated
at the factory. Perhaps that's why they ship 2 extra
rings with every light... because they know you're
going to need them!
Second, the battery contact/switch assembly can back
out of the end cap on its threads. If it does, you
will not be able to screw the cap back on far enough
to complete the circuit. The "field fix"
is to pinch the "guts" carefully between
your thumb and pinky finger (with the pinky inside
the endcap and the thumb on the rubber switch button)
and thread it back into the end cap as far as you
can. I would have used a tool to do this, but I didn't
have anything with me at the time.
For reference, I am a mechanical engineer with roughly
30 years of professional experience.
Author Notes: I would recommed lubricating the
O-rings with a teflon based lubricant. This may be found
in many hardware stores (and Radio Shack) in a precision
applicator and is often labeled as "Super Lube".
I find it works extremely well.
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